Ventura

Woah finally back!! After an intense surf weekend. Well, truth to be told, in the end we didn’t make it (again!!!). We planned to get into La Fortaleza but there wasn’t enough wave size. We were there at the right time, with the right conditions (or that’s what we thought): fierce NO wind blowing, 3,4meter swell and low tide, but it was too small.
We arrived at sunrise 7.20am (low tide was at 8.30am), quickly checked the spot to see that it was breaking perfect but waves were too small and the strong current didn’t let the wave break. It was quite surprising to see such a glassy wave break given the weather conditions. It was frustrating not being able to score but that’s life…

Anyway, I cached a few waves on Friday, with fairly solid overhead to twice overhead surf at Laredo. Powerful, fast breaking waves, with not too much room for mistakes. Any wrong decision was heavily punished with a fat lip over you, I got wiped out badly ;-). I think it was the first time I missed my 6′10″ Egg, being out there with 9′0″ longboard was hard. After my last wave, while I was waiting for a lull between sets, one guy got its board snapped into pieces by a huge incoming wave. I’d never seen anything like that!!!

On Sunday, we went to Islares at 8.00am quite surprisingly there were 4 guys in the water by then. The place is getting too crowed lately. It wasn�t breaking good, but there were some medium sized (shoulder high) rights breaking. People we were spread in two spots, it was difficult to connect these two sections, so there were not too much interferences. I think it got better as the tide was rising. I managed to ride a few waves with some funny take-offs, and medium length runs. It was funny and relaxing, overall: a nice day.

Tras un par de semanas no muy centrado el surf, menos de 3 baños/semana, que es, en invierno la media normal del menda lerenda (con este maldito cambio horario). Este finde “pinta relativamente bonito” al menos sobre el papel, hoy viernes estamos sobre los 4metracos (INM) aunque con un vendaval del Oeste importante: 9,4m/s, aunque la mar es cojonuda 15s de tiempo de pico y de una sola componente del Noroeste.

Según lo cual procuraremos estar en Laredo o ¿Islares?, en el momento adecuado a ver si podemos sacar un buen baño. Espero que esté al menos como ayer :-), que parece que fue bien.

Lo realmente interesante será mañana sábado, si finalmente y tras dejar escapar unos cuantos maretones, atacamos La Fortaleza por sorpresa antes de que despierte el día (ya os contaré el lunes pq no fuimos :-))

Afortunadamente esta semana ya pillé muy buenas olas este miércoles en Islares (verdad Julete :-). No mucho tamaño, almost waist high, que dirían por ahí, pero muy muy ordenado, con buena frecuencia y, esto fue lo mejor, 4 en el agua. Cogí buenas derechas no muy largas pero divertidas, y alguna izquierda. En definitiva: típico baño de entre semana, que consigue sacarte de la monotonía semanal para colocarte en otra dimensión. Aunque he de añadir, ¡Qué flojo estoy físicamente!.